The countdown has begun for the opening ceremony of the Paris Olympics, and excitement is brewing as the whole climbing community eagerly anticipates the start of sport climbing on August 5th. This article will delve into the changes to the event formats at the Paris Olympics, which differ from those seen in Tokyo, highlight the climbing holds used in the events, and introduce the talented athletes representing Australia.
In the 2024 Paris Olympics, sport climbing will see a significant change from the format used in the 2021 Tokyo Olympics. In Tokyo, the event combined three disciplines—speed, bouldering, and lead—into a single combined event, with climbers’ overall rankings determined by their cumulative performance across all three. For Paris, the events have been split into two distinct competitions: one for speed climbing and another combining bouldering and lead climbing. This separation allows athletes to specialise and compete in their strongest disciplines, promising even more thrilling performances and a higher level of competition. The new format is expected to provide a clearer showcase of climbers’ individual skills and bring an added layer of excitement to the sport.
FEATURE CLIMBING HOLDS (IFSC P24 Catalogue)
The Paris Olympics will feature a diverse array of climbing holds from some of the most renowned brands in the industry, ensuring both athletes and spectators are treated to a top-tier climbing experience. Top brands such as 360 Holds, Flathold, and Cheeta will be prominently featured, showcasing the latest and greatest holds to the wider sporting community.
A commonly unknown fact is that the holds, macros, and volumes used in the Olympic sport climbing events are released to the public prior to the games. This allows athletes and setters to practice on the specific climbing holds, providing a fair and equal playing field across all competitors. By familiarizing themselves with the holds in advance, athletes can better prepare for the challenges they will face, ensuring that the competition is a true test of skill and strategy. The full list of Olympics holds (P24) can be found on the IFSC website.
Asymmetrical Balls Set
360 Holds
The base of these low-profile volumes starts as a round circle and then tapers up in an asymmetrical fashion, offering a tricky and fun climbing experience. Slightly rotating the volumes by just a few degrees completely changes their surface, making them perfect for slabs and low-angle technical climbs.
Damage Control Set
Flathold
The Damage Control set has been a popular classic since its initial release in 2016. Initially, the focus was on creating high-quality dual-texture holds, featuring two fundamental shapes: ledges and balls. Recently, new holds have been added to this line, introducing a variety of grips while maintaining the signature shiny dual-texture. This set symbolises the resilience needed in climbing, where mistakes in grip or movement are inevitable, and climbers must push on.
AUSSIE OLYMPIC ATHLETES
Image Credit: Sport climbing Australia
Australia’s climbing scene will be well represented at the Paris Olympics by two outstanding athletes: Oceana Mackenzie and Campbell Harrison. Both qualified at the recent Oceania Qualifications in November 2023. Campbell Harrison, a former ICP-sponsored athlete, has been crushing competitions since an early age and specialises in lead climbing. Be sure to watch his performance during the semi-finals on August 5th.
“One thing that always inspired me about Campbell was his strength to focus on a specific task and give it his all on the wall. We (at ICP) loved having him in his early years and can’t wait to see his performance in Paris.” ~ Rob Parer (ICP CEO)
Oceana Mackenzie, Australia’s highest-ranked athlete in IFSC sport climbing, competed in the 2021 Tokyo Olympics. She has excelled in bouldering on the world cup stage during the 2023/2024 seasons and will be competing in the semi-finals on August 6th.
Go Australia!
